by Lea NogueiraTurning heirloom gold into a new jewel: options, care and expectations
Rings that no longer fit, broken chains, single earrings: ways to give heirloom jewellery new life and what to know before melting.
Many families keep gold nobody wears: grandmother's ring that fits no one, a broken chain, odd earrings, a christening medal. They have value, above all sentimental, but stay in a box. Turning them into a new jewel is a lovely way to bring them back into everyday life.
Three possible paths
1. Redesign without melting
The original piece stays, but is worn in a new way. A ring can become a pendant, an odd earring can be mounted on a necklace, a medal can get a new frame. This option preserves the piece's history best.
2. Reuse elements
A part is kept — a stone, a motif, a piece of filigree — and integrated into a new piece. The old element stays visible and the new jewel is built around it.
3. Recast the metal
The gold is melted and used as raw material for an entirely new piece. It's the freest option design-wise, but the original no longer exists.
What to know before melting
- Alloys mix. Pieces of different fineness — 19.2k, 18k, 14k — have different alloys. Melted together, the result has an in-between fineness and the colour may change. Read 925 silver, gold and plating explained.
- Old solder and small repairs end up in the mix and can affect the quality of the cast metal.
- Not everything is gold. Clasps, springs and inner parts may be other metals. They're separated first.
- There are always losses. Melting, rolling and finishing consume a small amount of metal.
- Refining (separating pure gold and re-alloying) is possible through a refiner, for more controlled results.
So recasting is great where colour and fineness aren't critical, and less suited when an exact fineness and colour are needed.
What about stones?
Stones are carefully removed before any heat work. They can be reused in the new piece if in good condition. Scratched or chipped stones can be repolished by a lapidary.
The sentimental question
A family piece carries memories. Before melting, ask: is there a part I want to keep visible? An engraving, a motif, a stone? Often the best new piece is the one that quietly shows where it came from.
It's also good to talk to the family. Grandmother's ring may mean something different to each person.
How it works at the atelier
- Assessment: we look at the pieces, identify the metal (hallmarks help) and their condition.
- Conversation: what you imagine, how you'll wear it, what you want to keep.
- Design and quote: Lea proposes the piece and explains what happens to the metal. If more is needed, we add it; if there's leftover, we return it.
- Making: only after your approval. See from sketch to jewel.
Start with a conversation
Bring the pieces to the atelier by appointment, or send us photos. Learn more about our bespoke and remodelled jewellery service.
Bespoke & remodelled jewellery
A piece designed for you, or new life for heirlooms. Free quote, a photo is enough.
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