by Lea NogueiraFrom sketch to jewel: how an author piece is born
From first idea to final finish: the stages of creating an author jewel, and what happens when you commission a bespoke piece.
An author jewel doesn't start in metal. It starts with an idea, a shape that catches the eye, a memory. Between that moment and the piece you wear lies a long path of drawing, testing and many hours at the bench. This article walks that path as we do at the Ignis atelier.
1. The idea
Ignis collections almost always start from nature and memory. The Flora collection grew from observing the chrysanthemum and its metamorphosis: the bud, the bloom, the falling petal. Forget Me Not starts from the forget-me-not flower and the idea that love also lives in memory.
An idea, though, isn't yet a jewel. The next step is to ask: how will it be worn? As an earring, a ring, a necklace? With what weight, what movement? A beautiful shape on paper can be uncomfortable on the ear.
2. The drawing
Drawing is where the idea gains proportion. Many versions are made: at real scale, front and side, with detail of joins and clasps. Metal thickness, size and how the piece sits on the body are decided.
The drawing is also where the technique is chosen. A leaf can be forged, cut out, built in filigree or modelled in wax for casting — and each choice gives a different result.
3. Choosing the technique
- Filigree for open, light pieces that let light through.
- Forging for fluid lines and surfaces that keep the gesture.
- Repoussé for volume and relief.
- Casting for complex organic forms or small runs.
Many pieces combine several. We explain each in forging, repoussé and filigree and lost-wax casting.
4. Mock-ups and tests
Before working in silver, it's common to make a mock-up in copper, brass or wax. It tests proportion, weight, an earring's balance, a ring's comfort. This is where problems surface: a jump ring that turns the wrong way, an edge that catches on clothing.
5. Making
With the design resolved, it's time for metal. This is the longest stage: preparing material, sawing, forging, building, soldering, assembling. In an author piece every step is done by hand, and this is where the piece gains its personality — the small variations that set a handmade object apart from an industrial one.
6. Finishing
The finish shapes the final reading: mirror polish, satin, hammered, oxidised in the recesses to bring out the design, gold plating. Clasps, earring backs and jump rings come last, followed by a final check for comfort and strength.
And when the piece is for you?
With a bespoke jewel, the process is the same but the idea is yours. We start with a conversation about what you imagine, the occasion, how it will be worn and the budget. Lea draws the piece and proposes materials and techniques. We only move to metal once you've approved the drawing and quote.
You can also start from jewellery you already own: an old ring, a set of heirlooms, a piece of gold put away. Read how to turn heirloom gold into a new jewel.
Learn more about our bespoke and remodelled jewellery service, or write to us through the contact page to start the conversation.
Bespoke & remodelled jewellery
A piece designed for you, or new life for heirlooms. Free quote, a photo is enough.
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